It's been a busy couple of months! Sorry for the delay in posting the completion of the coats of the previous posts - you will see why I'm late soon....
After the alterations are made to David's coat, the fabric is laid out and marked on the real fabric. >
After the alterations are made to David's coat, the fabric is laid out and marked on the real fabric. >
Jacket front - the blue thread marks the center front, where the buttons and buttonholes should be placed and the roll line for the collar. The white thread is called flat lining meaning we 'marry' two layers of fabric together so that they act as one. In this case, we used a medium weight non-fusible interlining to give this lightweight wool some additional weight.
All of this thread will be removed later.
All of this thread will be removed later.
I'm skipping a lot of steps in these photos because I have done so much since this and plan to post more; that said, here I am inserting the lining into David's coat - I have to match the collar, sleeves, and hems and finish the hems by hand.
Hand stitching the lining to the jacket vent at center back.
Continuing with inserting the lining, I start with cross stitching the hem and front facing in place by hand.
Then the lining hem is hand stitched in using an invisible stitch that is placed under the lining hem fold and attached to the shell hem. This allows for movement and should prevent puckering on the outside.
Second fitting to make sure all of the markings are in the right place and that everything fits well.
Almost done!
Finished with thread marking and flat lining removed. In addition to the pattern making, cutting and construction that I did on the coat, numerous students helped with the flat lining and thread marking - working in a costume shop is a group effort!
Dillon's coat - flat lined and thread marked.
A jacket front piece with dart and pocket opening stitched.
Preparing to attach the welt pocket.
This sleeve is two pieces - here one seam is being pressed open.
View of the sleeve seam from the 'right' side - it should be perfectly smooth.
Inserting the sleeve - note that the sleeve cap is slightly gathered which we call 'eased' - it should look smooth on the right side of the garment with no gathers visible.
I gave the whole operation a 1" seam allowance because we altered the sleeve shape very dramatically and this will allow for tweaking before we commit to the new shape.
I gave the whole operation a 1" seam allowance because we altered the sleeve shape very dramatically and this will allow for tweaking before we commit to the new shape.
Attaching the collar - seams trimmed and clipped.
The pressed collar seam from the other side - nice and smooth with a precise turn at the corner.
Coat before the lining is inserted.
Attaching the lining to the facing.
The lining is hand stitched to the vent at center back.
Unfortunately, we were moving at such a pace that I was unable to get a shot of the finished coat on this one.
Unfortunately, we were moving at such a pace that I was unable to get a shot of the finished coat on this one.
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